Ypres 2006


The NMBS Home Page
Guestbook - Please Sign
About us
NEW ! NMBS Group pictures
The Somme (2001)
D-Day and Normandy (2001)
Scotland (2002)
Verdun (2003)
Bulge / Ardennes (2003)
Waterloo (2003)
Ypres (2003)
D-Day and Normandy (2004)
Operation Market Garden (2005)
Varus / Germanicus (2005)
Battle of Trafalgar (2005)
Cannock (2006)
Ypres (2006)
Hadrian's Wall (2007)
London (2007)
NEW ! - The Somme (2007)
New! - Operation Dragoon (2007)
NEW! - Herbert William Preen
UK Memorials
Salford
Manchester
Liverpool
Bolton
Wigan (including Newton)
Dumfries
Hammersmith & Fulham
Links
NMBS Recipes !


Ypres - The First Full NMBS tour with all 5 of us.
 
 
 



Above - In Flanders Fields Ticket



After a few years of just passing Ypres (we visited in 2001 for an hour and a couple of hours in 2003) It was decided that Ypres should get the full NMBS treatment.  And we were not dissapointed.  Ypres is a wonderful town, a far cry from the death, deversatation and destruction that haunted the town for two world wars.  The trip to Ypres was different than in previous years. First we travelled by train to London and then jumped on the Eurostar ! This was fab ! It made all of us feel relaxed.
 
Ypres was also unique as it was the first time that all the current members of NMBS went, so Stu, Kev, Gerry, Lance and myself arrived a Ypres just before the Rememberance Sunday weekend 2006. We arrived at our gite and was happy with what we saw.  The place was wonderful, Huge converted barn, 7 bedrooms, 3 bathrooms, Massive wood burning fire, duck pond, ferral cats, and close to Ypres.  Brilliant and if anyone needs a a great gite in this area contact me and I will let you have details.
 
Ypres, like the Somme is a by word for carnage and some of the sites that we saw were heart breaking.  From Tyne Cot to Hill 60, each one bears the scares of a bloody war.
 
Almost everywhere you go in and around Ypres is a reminder to the battles that were fought around this area and the sacrifice that man of all nations endured.  For the NMBS the most sacred time will always be the 11th hour or the 11th day of the 11th month.  And on this day the NMBS were in a place where rememberence could be given justice.  At that hour we were in the "Hooge Crater CWGC" site, just over the road from the museum.  At 11am, we found the grave of an unknown soilder and placed one of the NMBS memorial crosses against his grave and stood for the two minutes silence.  For me being with four other friends at this time was akin to the "pals" or "band of brothers" and I am sure the moment was as moving for the others as it was for me. 
 
Other plusses on this trip was the Irish Peace Memorial and just a few yards down the road we found a underground trench system that had been only dug up that week.  The great and friendly pub called "The Tower" in mesen informed us of this find and the place is well worth a stop, for good food and great beer.  The owner is very informed and friendly and the barmaid smiles for fun !
 
To me Ypres is three main things.  The Last post at the Menin Gate, The CWGC site at Tyne Cot and the German Cemetery at Langemark.  Langemark was made famous or infamous when Adolf Hitler visited it during the Nazi invasion of the low countries.  Indeed Hitler fought for Germany during WWI in the ypres area and we visited the trenches where he was and the bunker where he may have stayed.  Ironic that it was another bunker he was famous for!  These trenches are at Bayernwald - an area the allies called Croonaert Wood.
 
Tyne Cot and the Near by Passchendaele will for ever more be the last resting places of many allied soilders.  On the day that we visited the two we got a small glimpse of what conditions were like.  The rain just belted it down and we were all soaked to the skin.  Here we were moaning about a bit of rain and men fought for years in similar conditions - as soon as this point was remembered the rain suddenly seemed no so bad.  Passchedaele was as bloody as The Somme or Verdun.  Between July and August 1917 300,000 British and commonwealth men were lost in the fighting.
 
Tyne Cot is the largest CWGC site in the world, with over 12,000 men buried there and nearly 34,000 names listed on the walls as "Lost or Missing in Action".  Tyne Cot was named after what the Geordie Soilders thought the German bunkers look liked - small Tyneside cottages.
 
 


Above - Ramparts Museum Ticket



Above - Another ticket - Passchendaele.  Not just a Museum but a sanctuary from the rain !


Above are some tickets of museums that we visited.  The Ramparts museum is basic, but still worth a visit.  The museum is set at the side of a pub (the pub own it) and the pub does a "Poppy ale" - although to be honest most of the NMBS did not think the ale was upto much.  The "In Flanders field" museum is very good - even though when we visited it was still being done up.  Hill 62 museum is Brillinat and Bad.  Brilliant amount of pictures, objects and it has in the grounds real and original trench system.  Bad that the owner with his hawk-eyes thinks every tourist is ripping him off.  The guy who owns it made a 13 year old pay adult admission because she could not prove her age.  So he made extra Euros out of her - my advice would be to spend it on some Lynx or Right Guard for himself.  The Hooge Crater museum is also very good as is the Passchedale museum.


Above - Tributes to the dead




Above - A Tree that was almost matchwood with the shelling.


Officially known as the Third Battle of Ypres, Passchendaele became infamous not only for the scale of casualties, but also for the mud.

 

Ypres was the principal town within a salient (or bulge) in the British lines and the site of two previous battles: First Ypres (October-November 1914) and Second Ypres (April-May 1915). Haig had long wanted a British offensive in Flanders and, following a warning that the German blockade would soon cripple the British war effort, wanted to reach the Belgian coast to destroy the German submarine bases there. On top of this, the possibility of a Russian withdrawal from the war threatened German redeployment from the Eastern front to increase their reserve strength dramatically.

The British were further encouraged by the success of the attack on Messines Ridge on 7 June 1917. Nineteen huge mines were exploded simultaneously after they had been placed at the end of long tunnels under the German front lines. The capture of the ridge inflated Haig's confidence and preparations began. Yet the flatness of the plain made stealth impossible: as with the Somme, the Germans knew an attack was imminent and the initial bombardment served as final warning. It lasted two weeks, with 4.5 million shells fired from 3,000 guns, but again failed to destroy the heavily fortified German positions.

The infantry attack began on 31 July. Constant shelling had churned the clay soil and smashed the drainage systems. The left wing of the attack achieved its objectives but the right wing failed completely. Within a few days, the heaviest rain for 30 years had turned the soil into a quagmire, producing thick mud that clogged up rifles and immobilised tanks. It eventually became so deep that men and horses drowned in it.

On 16 August the attack was resumed, to little effect. Stalemate reigned for another month until an improvement in the weather prompted another attack on 20 September. The Battle of Menin Road Ridge, along with the Battle of Polygon Wood on 26 September and the Battle of Broodseinde on 4 October, established British possession of the ridge east of Ypres.

Further attacks in October failed to make much progress. The eventual capture of what little remained of Passchendaele village by British and Canadian forces on 6 November finally gave Haig an excuse to call off the offensive and claim success.

However, Passchendaele village lay barely five miles beyond the starting point of his offensive. Having prophesied a decisive success, it had taken over three months, 325,000 Allied and 260,000 German casualties to do little more than make the bump of the Ypres salient somewhat larger. In Haig's defence, the rationale for an offensive was clear and many agreed that the Germans could afford the casualties less than the Allies, who were being reinforced by America's entry into the war. Yet Haig's decision to continue into November remains deeply controversial and the arguments, like the battle, seem destined to go on and on.



Above - The Boys of the NMBS pay respect to the fallen at Hooge Crater CWGC on Sunday 11th November at 11am.  We later laid a cross of poppies at the grave in front, which was a Member of the Manchester Pals, whose name in known unto God.