Verdun 2003


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Verdun.  The place where France nearly bled white.



Verdun was a unique trip in many ways.  It was the first (and to date) not British Battlefield that NMBS has been to. It was the smallest NMBS outing with just Lance Keeley, Gerry O'Meara and Steve Hoar - Andy McVeety had left the NMBS earlier in the year.  It was not until later in the year that Kevin Hunt and Stuart Erskine joined.
 
Verdun was also the first time that the NMBS had used a "Gite" (a French Farmhouse you can hire - which NMBS recommend that you do - excellent value for money, unless you turn the heating up all night!)
 
The biggest shock was to come at the French National Cemetery and the Douaumont Ossuary.  For me the sights that I saw at the Ossuary will stay with me forever.  Inside the Cloister - with the walls (White marbled, but the windows are red - which makes the walls seem blood red as the sunlight shines through.) of the 137 metre long cloister, with tombs - each showing the precise area of the Battle of Verdun where the bodies were recovered.  Each small tomb also has a shield (from the area of France the regiments were) and a torch of rememberance is lit on certain ceremonial days Underneath the Ossuary are the remains of 130,000 men who cannot be identified.  If you go around the back of the Ossuary, close to the ground are some windows - look through these windows you see the skulls and bones of these men piled up.  It is like looking at the pictures of the "Killing Fields" in Cambodia under Pol Pot.
 
Some would say this is too much and grusome.  For me even though it was stark and to be very blunt, shocking - it does what I feel is the desired effect.  It make sure anyone who sees the site knows of the stupidity of war, greed, hate and anger.  The British reserve would have never allowed Douaumont to happen in the UK or say at the Ypres Menin Gate site (I can just see the Daily Mail headlines now) but I think that the French have the right idea.  A picture of the cloister is below - but believe me it does look more red than pink when you are in there.



Above - Inside the Ossuary @ Douaumont



Above - The Bones that lie beneath the Ossuary


Apart from the Ossuary, Fort Vaux provided another memorable site.  The fort at Vaux was the North Eastern "Pillar" of the ring around the fortress town of Verdun, and was built between 1881 and 1884 (and with better explosives being formed in 1888, the wall were made stronger).  In the 1905 the fort was equipped with a 75mm gun turret - but in August 1915 this was stripped by the French to use on the frontline. When the Battle of Verdun started on February 21st 1916 Vaux was in direct line of fire- the 75mm guns were reinstalled, but soon suffered a direct hit and without its firepower the fort became an easy capture. Vaux became the second of the forts in the ring to fall despite a desperate fight by the French, which resulted in some drinking their own sweat and urine to survive (the German bombardment had knocked out the water tanks)  The Germans use gas, grenades and flame-throwers, by 4th June 1916 the Germans had reached the superstructure of the fort.  The French commander Major Sylvain-Eugene Raynal sent many homing pigeons to his commanders asking for permission to surrender, and by the last one his note include the infamous line "This is my last pigeon!" the fort was surrendered to the Germans.  At the surrender the Crown prince of Germany presented Raynal with his sword as a mark of respect of the heroic defence Raynal had shown.  The Fort was then kept by the Germans until November 1916.
 
 
 
 


Above - Fort Douaumont



Above - Inside Douaumont - Geman Memorial to men who died by flame-thrower.